Features

Nomads Of Ararat

Hanim is fifty-one years old, but she looks at least thirty years older, and for good reason: She’s the leader of the Hasasori, a small family of semi-nomadic Jelali Kurds who eke out a simple existence farming sheep on the southern slopes of Mount Ararat in East Turkey, and life is far from easy. The…

Southern Comfort

When the four members of our rock band in the UK decided to embark on an excursion to the home of the blues in the deep south, USA; we had little idea we’d wind up spending half our time in a remote swamp… and enjoy it! Two days of hard drinking in Bourbon Street, New…

72 Hours in India

I found a friendly, but basic guesthouse near the Taj Mahal. I only planned to stay one day there, but it wound up turning into nearly a week. The admission price to the Taj was extremely steep – a whopping 750 rupees. I debated whether or not to go, but then decided you can’t go…

Pakistan: Riding the Iron Chicken Bus

I dread travelling on buses, particularly in the third world. They invariably stop all the times you don’t need them to and never when you do. To make matters worse, many buses don’t have toilets on them, rest stops seemingly don’t have toilets, even though at times the ones they choose resemble a toilet. So…

Holiday in Cambodia

08:00 AM September 8th, 2002 – After my third night in Bangkok I am fulfilling a lifelong dream by arriving in an air-conditioned minivan at the Cambodian border town of Poipet. I am still hung over from the previous evening, and nervous (in that excited kind of way), but I am determined to prove all…