Seeking advice: Kurdistan

[nick]

Mr. Ridley and others who have traveled to the land of the Kurds:

What kind of costs will I be looking at in northern Iraq? Is it feasible to hook up with the PKK at this time? What has been your experience crossing the border from Turkey?

Advice much appreciated.

[Lee Ridley]

Nick,

Costs can be as little or as much as you’re willing to spend. There are cheap hotels, and there are good ones that’ll cost you 40-50 USD per night. More if you’re a real tart. Food and drinks are cheap, so the whole thing needn’t break the bank. It all comes down to how long you’re going to be there.

You might get lucky meeting the bad guys, but only after you spend a good bit of time networking, making good contacts that you can trust and who trust you, and maybe crossing a few palms with silver. The Turkish pressure is really mounting now, so expect the PKK to be extremely cautious about who they invite into their midst. They’re going to be bracing themselves for the steadily growing threat of a cross border incursion, so they’ll have other things on their mind than allowing an unknown quantity into their community, unless they think that there’s something in it for them.

In a nutshell, I’d say that it’ll take time and considerable baksheesh if you don’t already have close contacts in place already. And before you ask, no one in their right mind is going to share their contacts with you unless they themselves know you well enough to trust you. No offence.

Good luck.

[Sean Rorison]

Well, there’s a stranger.

Where you been, Nick?

[Debris]

I came back from Kurdistan 2 weeks ago:

-At the border crossing, the Kurds will offfer you tea and they´ll question you on your trip intentions. Be natural, tell the truth(don´s say you´re a journo if can´t probe it) and you´ll get a 10 days visa stamped on your passport.

– Be aware that extending your visa is a REAL pain in the ass(blood samples, massive queues etc)

-You have cheap, and clean hotels starting at 15 dollars. If you have a travel mate you´ll share the cost of the room. Out of the main cities, you´re very likely to be invited to a Kurdish house.

-Food is unexpensive, and transport between the main cities(Duhok, Erbil, Suleimaniyah) is done by shared taxis (between 12-15 dollars)

-I´ve been in Kurdistan twice, and both times I´ve felt as safe as in Iran (IMHO the safest country on Earth). The locals are very friendly and I paid no bribes to any guard/soldier/policeman during both trips

-I met the “bad guys” because I had the right contacts (you can see one in the Qandil slideshow I posted here). They were friendly, definitely much friendlier than the fucking Jandarma in Turkey

-The only problem I see about travelling to Kurdistan now is that you could get stuck inside. I doubt the Ataturks will carry out any “big scale invasion”, but planes will stop flying and the only border crossing will be shut.

Cheers

[nick]

Thanks gentlemen, that’s pretty much what I had expected.

Lee, I understand exactly what you’re saying about contacts. No hard feelings whatsoever. I’m loathe to give anyone mine either.

I’ve been here and there. Looking to get outta this joint again soon. Too long on terra firma. Kurdistan would be simply wonderful right now.

[Lee Ridley]

Nick,

Lots going on in East Turkey right now. No need to cross into Iraq if you are worried about the border closing behind you. Just head to Sirnak province and get talking to people. More action there than N Iraq, really.

Be warned though, expect numerous roadblocks along the way and to be hauled out and interrogated as to who you are, what you’re doing, where you’re going etc. If you have time, make your way over to Hakkari; the scenery is stunning.

Cheers.

[Author]

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