Central Asia

Kyrgyzstan – A Day At The Races

From Here to There and Back Again: Horses and Cultural Ruminations in Kyrgyzstan Below the snow-covered slopes of eastern Kyrgyzstan, the horses ran in the At Chabysh races that afternoon in early November with all of the power and the grace and the beauty of all of their forebears. So much in the foreground of human cultures…

Kazakhstan – Horsemeat and Two Veg

A Kazakh Nomads’ expression of equine affinity states, “Kazakhs are born in horses”. Perhaps that’s going a little too far, if taken literally, but there’s undeniably a very close alliance between man and beast in this vast tract of Central Asia. The present Republic of Kazakhstan was created in 1991 on the dissolution of the…

Tranquil Tbilisi

Georgia’s most famous son, Ioseb Jughashvili, later known by his cryptonym, Josef Stalin, once had monolithic cement replicas of his diminutive stature and lugubrious countenance peppered all across the Soviet empire. These days he doesn’t have even a single figurine in the whole of the city where, as a teen, he studied in the seminary…

Tajikistan – The Middle Of Nowhere

I’m writing this en route from Istanbul to Munich after departing Dushanbe this morning. We’ll overnight in Munich and return to San Francisco at 6:30PM on Sunday evening. All told, we’ll have spent approximately 48 hours in aircraft in the last two weeks. We’ll also have spent at least 48 hours in various seats of…