Features

Darfur Crisis: From The Inside – Pt2

“The wholesale burning of farms; the deportations; the burnt-out populations, brought in by hundreds in convoys; deprived of clothes; the semi-starvation in the camps; the fever-stricken children, lying upon the earth; the appalling mortality”… While this description could readily fit into a news report on the situation in Darfur today, it in fact is a…

Mausjaur – Pt 1

The snow carpeted the floor of the mature pine forest, sparkling in the crisp, still, freezing morning air. A solitary raven croaked in the distance, it’s familiar sound carrying across an otherwise silent, arctic wilderness as I strained my ears, searching for the first faint noise of the approaching herd. The dogs’ barking, barely audible,…

Mausjaur – Reindeer Herding (Part 1)

The snow carpeted the floor of the mature pine forest, sparkling in the crisp, still,freezing morning air. A solitary raven croaked in the distance, it’s familiar sound carrying across an otherwise silent, arctic wilderness as I strained my ears, searching for the first faint noise of the approaching herd.

The Day the Earth “Didn’t” Stand Still

The tents started in ones and twos, and progressed to an almost solid wall on either side of the road. Outside many of them, people were working around fires, making tea and breakfast. I had yet to see any physical earthquake damage, but the strain on the faces of the people, and the sheer numbers…

Pakistan: Ghosts

It seemed to weigh heavily on him, this bespectacled middle-aged man opposite me. Alternately hunching his shoulders when lapsing into deep thought, and then rising up again when making a vital point, he would continue to talk, at times lowering his voice to a whisper, conscious not to allow his voice to reach the surrounds…

Into Iraq – A Traveler’s Journal – Part 3

Sabotaged oil pipelines have been burning for a few days, so there’s a brownish-grey haze over the horizon. South of Baghdad, on the way to Kufa, cars are stopped on one side of the highway. My cab driver, following many other cars, crosses the median and drives on the other side, against oncoming traffic. This…