Middle East

Iraq – Lalish And The Yezidi Kurds

Lalish: the Kurds´ hidden treasure in northern Iraq Safe in the Kurdish haven of northern Iraq, but still only 50 km north of war-torn Mosul, lies Lalish, the Yezidi Kurds´ holiest shrine. Visiting this particular site, tantamount to the Catholics´ Vatican or Muslims’ Mecca, had become an obsession since I first came across Yezidi Kurds…

Nomads Of Ararat – Return To The Mountain

In a small corner of East Turkey, just a stone’s throw from the Iranian border, exists a race of semi-nomadic folk called the Jelali. The Jelali follow a lifestyle founded on livestock farming across a mountainous landscape that includes Mount Ararat, the fabled resting place of Noah’s Ark; Little Ararat, a smaller version of its…

Yemen – Detained

Tom and I set out yesterday for Bayt Baws, a former village now swallowed by Sanaa’s urban sprawl. We descended in the bus into Hada and began walking on the road towards the village. A few minutes passed before a jeep crawled up to us. “Hello Sadeeq! Where you from?” Something about the situation made…

Return To Iraq

“In brief and in clear words, don’t come to Iraq at this specific time. The way to Baghdad from the north is too dangerous. They can easily chase you and hurt you. Roads are extremely danger even for Iraqi people.” (Excerpt from an E-mail from an Iraqi friend in Baghdad, just before my trip –…