Africa

Congo – A Bridge Too Far

The Long haul to Dolisie – Hopping the famous Trans-Gabonais train, I departed at Moanda, the second to last stop. I had a mild interest in seeing Franceville; however I was a day behind (I wanted to leave Libreville Thursday, yet there was no train Thursday), and went directly into one of eastern Gabon’s larger…

Darfur Crisis: Nomads Or Bandits?

At the centre of the conflict in Darfur is the issue of ethnic identity. On the face of it all Darfurians are Muslim and are Sahelian or Saharan people, an age-old mixture of Arab and African resulting from centuries of inter-mixing and inter-marriage. I sat in the market place in Zalingei in West Darfur one…

Darfur Crisis: From The Inside – Pt2

“The wholesale burning of farms; the deportations; the burnt-out populations, brought in by hundreds in convoys; deprived of clothes; the semi-starvation in the camps; the fever-stricken children, lying upon the earth; the appalling mortality”… While this description could readily fit into a news report on the situation in Darfur today, it in fact is a…

Essaouira New Year

“Ourghh, God”. It was December 31, 1999 and after a month of touring through Morocco I had finally fallen victim to the curse of the third world. For me the catalyst was a chicken kebab roll. That was three days ago. I moaned, clutching my stomach and rolled over to the least painful position. My…